NUTRITIP Weigh Your Bread As a general guide, the heavier the bread the more nutrition it contains. When shopping, compare breads by holding a loaf in each hand. The loaf that weighs more is more loaded with nutrients. Bread made with whole wheat flour is naturally heavier, firmer, and more nutrient-dense than airy white bread.

• Best breads are 100 percent whole wheat. Whole wheat flour is the first ingredient on the label. Enriched flour does not appear in the ingredient list. If it doesn't say "whole wheat," it's not. Wheat flour, as listed on labels, officially should mean 75 percent white and 25 percent whole wheat, but it may not. All white bread is "wheat flour," so this term is misleading, at best. A truthful label would state what percentage is whole wheat. If a label says "wheat flour," assume it's not whole wheat.

• Better breads list "whole wheat flour" as the main ingredient, but may include white flour, too.

• Downright junk breads list "bleached, enriched flour" first in the ingredient list. Leave these on the shelf where they belong. If it doesn't say "whole" on the label, it's wrong for your body.
  Non-wheat flours. The term "flour" doesn't necessarily mean wheat. Flour, and therefore bread, can be made from any grain. But since other flours don't contain gluten, most of these appear in bread in combination with wheat flour. They may appear on their own in other types of baked goods. Popular non-wheat flours are:
  • Buckwheat flour. Despite its name, buckwheat does not contain the wheat (or gluten) protein and is therefore digestible by gluten-sensitive persons. It's a popular pancake flour, combined with wheat.

  • Oat flour. Oat flour is more commonly used in cereals than in bread. When used with whole wheat flour, it makes a moister whole-grain bread.

  • Rye flour. Rye is a high-protein, high-fiber grain of at least equal nutrition to wheat flour and is often used for breads. Look on the label for "unbolted" rye if you want a whole-grain rye flour.

  • Cornmeal. This is made from white or yellow corn. You'll find it in breads, pancakes, and muffins. If there is an American bread, cornbread would be it. It was a staple of early pioneer diets. Like other flours, cornmeal comes either bolted ("degermed") or unbolted. Corn flour is finely ground cornmeal.

  • Soy flour. Defatted, ground soybeans make a flour high in protein. You can substitute soy flour for a small amount of the wheat flour in recipes to boost the protein content of the finished product.

  • Arrowroot flour. Unlike the protein-rich wheat, arrowroot is primarily starch. It comes from the root of a tropical plant called the maranta. Because it is easy to digest, it's a popular ingredient in starter cookies for infants and children.

No matter how you slice it, whole wheat bread is more nutritious than white because whole wheat bread contains the following:

• nearly one-third more protein
• three to four times the amount of fiber
• four times more zinc
• more folic acid
• more iron
• more chromium (an important mineral which regulates sugar and fat metabolism, especially important in hyperactive children)

Although whole wheat bread is reported to have the same glycemic index as white bread, because of the extra nutrients the carbohydrates in whole wheat bread may have less of a roller-coaster effect on blood sugar.

The nutritional content of bread is not affected by the bread's shape or presentation-whether its rolls, bagels, or sliced bread. What matters most is the kind of flour in the bread. The main nutritional difference is whether breads are made with whole wheat or white flour.

As with grains, ranking breads is very difficult. We have attempted to rate them according to the following nutrients: protein, fiber, calcium, iron, zinc, folic acid, niacin, riboflavin, and vitamins B-6 and E (assigning one point each), and factoring in nutrients per calorie. Using this point system, the breads rank:

1. multi whole-grain
2. whole wheat
3. pita, whole wheat
4. pumpernickel
5. rye, American
6. white

Next to wheat, oats are the most popular grain found in breads and cereal, such as granola and muesli. While oats are nutritionally similar to whole wheat, the oat kernel has not been taken apart like the unfortunate wheat, so oats are often nutritionally superior to some forms of wheat. If you see the word "groat" applied to grains, don't think it's a misprint. "Groats" is the term given to the to the whole kernels of any grain in the raw state-before any processing. The most nutritious and practical way to use oats is to purchase oatbran and sprinkle it on cereal or add it to baking goods. One-third of a cup of oat bran provides the following:

• 130 calories
• 7 grams of protein
• 6 grams of fiber
• iron, zinc, vitamin E, and B-vitamins

The fiber in oat bran is a perfect compliment to that in wheat bran. The fiber in wheat bran is primarily insoluble (the colon-cancer-preventing fiber), while the primary fiber in oatbran is the soluble, cholesterol-lowering kind.

Rolled oats, the kind you use in oatmeal, are made by rolling and heating whole grain oats so they cook more quickly. In bread, rolled oats appear as pale flecks and help give bread a chewy, moist texture. Uncooked, rolled oats appear in cereals, like muesli and granola.

Barley is a popular grain in cereals and, because its easily digested, is used as an alternative to rice in baby cereals. Yet, because barley does contain some gluten, it is a less intestinal-friendly cereal for gluten-sensitive children and adults. Unfortunately, most Americans get most of their barley in beer, since barley malt is a popular grain in beer-making. Most of the barley commonly used in cereal or bread-making is "pearled," which means it has been refined to remove the germs and the bran, much like the degrading of whole wheat to white. You'll find barley in many soups. It can also be cooked and used in main dishes as a substitute for rice.

Despite it's name, buckwheat is neither a wheat nor a grain. Botanically a fruit, this favorite pancake-ingredient got its name from the Dutch word bockweit. Buckwheat enjoys a few nutritional perks over wheat: it is much higher in the amino acid lysine, somewhat higher in vitamin E, and is much lower in gluten, an important difference to gluten-sensitive individuals. Buckwheat does have some fiber, primarily of the soluble type, but it is less of a source of fiber than wheat and many of the other grains. Buckwheat is the main ingredient in a rice-like Eastern European dish called kasha that is often served as a kasha-pilaf. In pancake batter, the combination of eggs and buckwheat make buckwheat pancakes a complete protein.

Botanically, amaranth is not really a grain, but it has the nutritional profile of one. It surpasses whole wheat in calories, protein, iron, zinc, copper, and nearly all nutrients, and is the grain highest in folic acid, calcium, and vitamin E. Also, like wheat, amaranth is rich in the amino acid lysine. It even contains a bit of vitamin C. Even though this overlooked and underappreciated food is expensive and found only in nutrition stores, it is a grain with a future. Amaranth can be added to other grains, used as a thickener, garnish, popped like popcorn, or added to homemade bread. Because it is one of the most nutrient-dense foods, we have placed it at the top of our greatest grains list.

Like amaranth, quinoa (pronounced keen-wa) is botanically not a grain, yet it has the nutritional profile of a grain and similar uses. It ranks along with amaranth as a "super grain." It is higher than other grains in protein and iron, folic acid, and some B-vitamins. Yet, it is deficient in the amino acids, tyrosine and cystine and lower than some grains in fiber. Even though quinoa is expensive and found mainly in specialty nutrition stores, it is a nutritious addition to other grains, mixed and served in pilaf, in a sauce, or cooked as a cereal similar to oatmeal with a firmer, more gooey texture and a much more distinctive flavor.

A popular grain in Asian and Middle Eastern flatbreads, millet is lower than wheat in fiber, but a rich source of B-vitamins and trace metals. Because it's gluten-free, it isn't used as the main grain in leavened breads. It can be used in its raw state as a healthy addition to some wheat breads, where it appears as crunchy, white beads, or cooked like rice.

Rice enjoys a popularity similar to wheat. In Asia, it's the main grain. It is much less nutrient dense than wheat, being lower in protein, fiber, iron, folic acid, calcium, zinc, vitamin E, and B- vitamins. Rice's claim to fame is that it contains the most carbohydrates, which makes rice a popular energy food in many cultures. Because of its easy taste and digestibility, the rice-lover can make up for rice's lower nutritional quality by eating more quantity. Rice is much more palatable than some of the more nutritious grains that overpower the senses with their taste and aroma. Also, rice is one of the more intestinal-friendly grains. Since it is low in fiber and gluten- free, it is often the grain of choice for persons, especially infants, recovering from diarrheal illnesses or who are gluten sensitive.

White rice. The processing that refines natural brown rice into the white stuff, removes many of the nutrients, similar to what the milling factories do in disassembling wheat. Brown rice is much higher than white (even the enriched variety) in the following nutrients: protein, fiber, zinc, folic acid, vitamin E, B-vitamins, and calcium. Brown rice has over fifteen times the amount of vitamin E as white rice. As with so many food tradeoffs, white rice is more popular than brown because it is blander and quicker to cook. White rice belongs in the same nutritional category as white bread.

Brown rice. Brown rice is much higher than white (even the enriched variety) in the following nutrients: protein, fiber, zinc, folic acid, vitamin E, B vitamins, and calcium. Brown rice has over fifteen times the amount of vitamin E as white rice.

Wild rice. Botanically, not really a grain but rather a grass, wild rice is much more nutritious than even brown rice, being much higher in protein, zinc, folic acid, and vitamin E. Not only is wild rice much more nutritious than white and somewhat more nutritious than brown, it has a texture and flavor that far surpasses any other form of rice, accounting for its popularity in finer restaurants. Once considered a delicacy, it is now so widely available that for the nutritionally-minded person it is really the healthiest form of rice. Wild rice has gotten an unfair rap by being dubbed "too expensive." Not true. After cooking, it swells to 3 or 4 times its initial volume, so a little wild rice goes a long way. One cup of dried wild rice becomes three or four cups of rice on the plate, enough for six to eight servings.

Rice terms. Besides white, brown, and wild, there are other terms that you will see associated with rice that have more to do with taste, appearance, and mode of preparation than with nutritional differences.

• Rice bran. Rice bran is nutritionally similar to oat and wheat brans, but contains more calcium, iron, zinc, and folic acid. Like other brans, it is a rich source of fiber, some of which is in the cholesterol-lowering soluble form. Since rice bran is higher in fat and less palatable than some of the other brans, it spoils quickly and is not a popular addition to foods, though it is often added to rice cakes, cereals, and sprinkled on other foods.

• Long-grain, medium-grain, and short-grain obviously refers to the length of the rice particle. The longer the grain, the more fluffy is the rice and the less it clumps together. Long-grain rice is the most popular variety in the U.S. and makes up most of the domestic- grown rice. Medium and short-grain rice is more popular in Asian cooking. One reason is because the short-kernel size and the higher percentage of starch makes the kernels clump together, so it is easier to eat with chopsticks.

• Enriched rice means that the B-vitamins, niacin and thiamin, have been added, as well as iron to make up for the nutrients lost when brown rice is refined into white. This is a bad nutritional deal, since more good stuff was taken out than is put back in. Better to just eat brown rice.

• Rice cakes are made of puffed-up rice, which is mostly air and very low in nutrition. But rice cakes are an alternative to bread as a vehicle for nutritious spreads, such as peanut butter and fruit spreads. Rice cakes, made with either white or the more nutritious brown rice, are a favorite melt-in-the-mouth starter food for infants and a good snacking food.

• Converted or parboiled means the rice has been soaked and steamed before milling, which prevents some of the nutrients in the grain from being completely lost in the refining. Converted rice retains a bit more of the folic acid and B-vitamins, but otherwise is essentially the same as white rice. This rice may actually take longer to cook than white rice, and it may yield a fluffier grain.

• Instant rice (available in white or brown) shortens the cooking time from 20-30 minutes to five minutes. Yet, as happens so often with processed foods, you trade away some nutrition for a gain in convenience. Compared with regularly cooked rice, the instant variety has a bit less of the following nutrients (though the differences may be insignificant): selenium, zinc, B-6, folic acid, and much of the amino acids. Instant rice also loses a bit of its texture.

• Basmati rice is a nutty-flavored rice with a dry texture more like nuts than rice. It is used in Indian cuisine, available as brown or white.

Rye flour contains twice as much fiber, iron, zinc, vitamin E, B-vitamins, and calcium as whole wheat flour. The amino acid profile of rye flour is also better than whole wheat. Does that make rye bread better for you than whole wheat? Not exactly, for two reasons. In its original form, or dark variety, rye flour is much more nutritious than wheat. But by the time the rye is refined, the "light rye" contains around half the nutrients of the original, dark rye. In addition, most American rye bread is not 100 percent rye, but a mixture of rye flour and refined wheat flour. So, by the time the factory turns rye into bread, the product that reaches the supermarket is either similar to, or less nutritious than, a slice of whole wheat bread. A mixture of whole rye flour (also called dark rye flour) and whole wheat flour would be a terrifically nutritious bread.

It's misleading, if not impossible, to rank grains. Their relative value depends on what nutrients you are looking for. Is one nutrient more important than another? Is fiber more important than protein? Maybe, if you're a senior citizen, but not if you're a child. Do you judge nutritional value by nutrients per ounce, or nutrients per calorie? When you see any rating system for food, take it with a grain of salt and remember that variety is an important key to healthy eating.

In spite of these difficulties, we decided to give it a try and rate the twelve most common grains according to the following nutrients: protein, fiber, iron, zinc, folic acid, vitamin E, riboflavin, niacin, thiamin, and calcium. If you assign one point for each of these nutrients, the ratings come out as follows:

The grains highest in calcium, ranked in order are: amaranth, quinoa, oats, barley, rye, and whole wheat. Gluten-free grains are: corn, rice, soy. (Buckwheat may contain a small amount of gluten.) The top five grains for iron are: quinoa, amaranth, oats, enriched rice, millet and barley. The top grains for zinc (an important immune-booster) are: wild rice, rye, amaranth, oats, and quinoa. The top grains for folic acid are: millet, wild rice, rye, amaranth, and oats.

Even though nutritionally amaranth would rank as the greatest grain, overall the top grain in our book is whole wheat. Even though other grains may have slightly more nutrients, wheat is a whole lot more useful in a whole lot more foods. Whole wheat comes out as top grain.